After 10 days of mixing relaxation with hard driving around the Chimanimani district (which we will write about in a separate article) it was time to head north from the Chimanimani Mountains in the south to the centrally located Bvumba Mountains and onwards to Nyanga further north, which includes the scenic Honde Valley.
Mutare
Our first stop was Mutare and a fulsome breakfast including a large mug of fresh filtered coffee in the garden at Zimbos Cafe, (located on 29 First Street by the Greek Orthodox Church). https://www.facebook.com/zimboscafe/. It’s not the only place in town but it is the one I know best. You might also consider the Mutare Club built in 1897 as the Stock exchange which is the colonial building at the top of Herbert Chitepo. Nearby is Karen’s Kitchen, also worth a visit.
Mutare’s name reflects its history as a mining town with iron and gold deposits. These days it is a busy and hectic place that shares national characteristics with a large informal sector. Cash is king . The supermarkets are at the top end of town close enough to each other that you can pick and choose. If you are after car parts you might try First and Second streets and ask from there.
If you park on or anywhere near the main street (Herbert Chitepo) it’s $1 an hour. The parking attendants will find you quickly enough. Sometimes, if you’re nearby, parked down a side street (especially by Spar and Nandos) you may also get hassled by kids wanting a dollar to keep an eye on your car. It is annoying, especially as they usually look like they could do with a dollar.
The Mutare Museum is worth a visit for local history and cultural insights into the region and especially for the eclectic vehicle collection which is a significant highlight for me. It’s on Aerodrome road, so turn left near the top of Herbert Chitepo (main street).
Currency Note: The US dollar is widely accepted in Zimbabwe, as is the South African Rand. Some supermarkets price in ZIG (Zimbabwe Investment Gold), predominantly an online currency, but they will convert to US dollars at the till. At the time of writing, the official ZIG rate aligns well with the US dollar. However, if rates fluctuate, using a local’s ZIG card might offer a better exchange (they will approach you). Whatever you do make sure you bring in small denomination notes: $1s, $5s and $10s. If your change is less than a dollar you are likely to get your change in boiled sweets!
Bvumba – Mountains of the Mist
The Bvumba Mountains start 20 minutes to the south and east from Mutare. While a day trip is possible, an overnight stay allows for a more relaxed exploration of its many sights.
Our first stop was early on at the Prince of Wales Viewpoint which has big views over Mutare and the Forbes border crossing point into Mozambique.
There is plenty of space to park here.
But the place I was most looking forward to was Tony’s Coffee Shop, which has a legendary status for its tea, coffee and cake. As we discovered, it doesn’t open on Mondays and Tuesdays. So we don’t know if it is as good as its legendary status, you decide. https://www.facebook.com/tonyscoffeeshop
Tony’s loss was the Leopard Rock Hotel and Casino’s gain. The guard at the gate welcomed us with an amusing walk and salute. We were out of season so the hotel was very quiet. A game of golf had appeal but we didn’t fancy walking in the cold and drizzle and so we settled for coffee and brownies inside by a small fire. Old fashioned luxury. A great choice.
We’d done some hiking in Chimanimani so didn’t feel the need to do more. However, it is worth knowing there are many opportunities in the Bvumba so we created this link that gives a google low-down on the routes – click it! Make sure you check the weather before you go as it can get cold. If you’re hiking then you will probably be keen on birds. All of the eastern highland is excellent for Birdwatching – Bvumba is one of the most accessible places.
We can recommend Vumba Botanical Gardens to combine a stroll with bird watching. These landscaped gardens feature a vast collection of indigenous and exotic plants, including a significant cycad collection. The gardens include small streams and serene lakes that make for a wonderful birding experience.
If you’re looking for accommodation then we’d like to give a shout out to Seldom Seen which fairly describes itself as a bird watching paradise in the Bvumba. Sunrise was incredible, as the sun came up the birds came visiting.These little moments make a place.
The Honde Valley Tea Estates
The drive from Mutare to Aberfoyle Lodge at the end of the Honde Valley rewards you every kilometre of the way. The view around each corner is different but always fabulous, lush and vibrantly green. Sometimes it feels like you have stepped back in time going gently around donkey and cart, or tractors from the 60’s. Occasionally a city car sped by, seemingly oblivious to the glory around them. I think I would have enjoyed being on the donkey and cart.
We didn’t have an agenda for this part of our trip other than to drive and explore to see what was there. We ended up driving to Aberfoyle Lodge which was pretty much at the end of the road.
One stretch was both a photographic feast and familiar – a long sweeping stretch of red track with tea plantations interspersed with acacia trees spread over the hills like green velvet. It was where Clarkson and the Grand Tour chaps started their very last programme. When I rewatched it again I realised they used the same stretch of road from different angles at least five times. It was very pretty, but overall I think they failed to show the best of what they would have seen in the Honde Valley
We stopped at https://aberfoylelodge.com for a cup of tea only. Next time we’ll come for a few days, play some golf, have a swim and enjoy poolside service and maybe, after a day of walking … a foot massage. It is beautifully located, immaculately presented and not expensive from what I remember (if you get an inclusive deal).
We particularly enjoyed the art at their very modern and beautiful Art Gallery.
That night we stayed at Pagotwe Lodge at Hauna Growth Point. Edwin at Aberfoyle laughed when we told him this. He said “that is where I am from. Where are you staying?” I dont think he thought we could handle it. However, Edwin doesn’t know everything. It was OK, the room was on the small side but it worked and was safe. We didn’t check out the nightlife of Honde Growth Point.
Nyanga around Troutbeck and World’s View
Our final two days were spent at a friend’s private lodge near Nyanga. Our first stop was the nearby Troutbeck Inn for coffee and scones on the grass bank overlooking the man made lake. Troutbeck has a fire in the reception lobby that has remained lit since 1st March 1951. The staff admitted they would be fired if it went out. The other reason for coming here is to do some Trout fishing. The season is closed if the trout are spawning.
Talking of scones, we much preferred the scones just 20 minutes up the road at Nyamora Dairy. They also serve wonderful fresh filtered coffee, milkshakes, brownies, apple pie, milk tart muffin, as well as club sandwiches, chicken and chips, smashed avocado (oh yes) and samosas. We went back for breakfast the next day.
Nyamora Dairy is not well sign-posted. It is 20 minutes north from Troutbeck, after a dam on the left and then left at a big junction. Trust your instincts. After a kilometre or so you’ll turn left at another junction where you will see a sign for the dairy.
The B.U.M.P.Y. road to Gairezi EcoTourism Lodges
(Bonejarring, Undulating, Marred, Potholed, Yeowsa)
After a few days of cruising on mainly well maintained tar roads we were keen to get into 4WD mode and headed for the nearby Gairezi river. To get there turn right on Church Road, about 500m after Troutbeck Resort. On Google maps Church Road seems to peter out, but it is there.
It was a tough drive, but it was accessible after an hour of patient driving. We were specifically aiming for Gairezi Ecotourism Cottages. I’ve later read that the Gairezi river is famous for fly-fishing. We didn’t see any of that. After checking in and paying our fees, we continued, crossed a small bridge and went up, over and back down to the cottages on the other side of the river where we found a quiet spot, parked off, made ourselves a cup of tea and then dozed off. There are many delightful spots like this. Unless you have a 4×4 forget about coming here. It would be too tough.
World’s View – the sunset on our trip
Our final visit was to World’s View. It is well signposted. I’ve seen a lot of very nice sunsets over the years and this one joins them. What is unusual is the nature of the vista. The vantage points are from up on high. In front the cliffs drop dramatically and far to the valley floor where you can see everything in front of you for maybe 10-15 kilometres before hills and mountains rise again and occupy the skyline.
This photo doesn’t show that very well but it does give you a sense of why it’s worth the effort.
We didn’t see the now world famous Mutarazi Falls Skywalk and Skyline. We’re too old. And then it was onwards to Harare. Another story, another day. Our trip was done.
Author – Andy Woodruff – June 2025
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You can read the Part 1 of this article here https://www.heavenlodge.com/2025/07/beitbridge-to-gonarezhou-national-park-to-chimanimani/
